Manang and Back -

Here I am back in the Hotel Ganesh Himal a little bit worse for wear after a few adventures. It seems like a long time has passed since I was here last when in reality it has only been maybe two weeks. Apparently it is December the 6^th today – just been told by a tourist reclining on the lounge next to mine on the hotel roof-top. The weather has been very clear and even now in smoggy Kathmandu in the late afternoon I can see the tops of the high mountains peeping over the Valley rim of hills. I can also look over to my left and see the Swayambunath stupa glowing on its hill.

I returned from a great trek to Manang with a dose of bacterial gastro, and am just finishing off 5 days of antibiotics – also managed to get bitten by some strange thing and have an allergic reaction that has made the inside of my right calf look a bit dodgy – but all seems under control. A visit to the doctor in Pokhara got me sorted or at least under way to recovery. But I’m getting a it ahead of my self. Back to the trek . . .

I took notes on the way but had no computer so will do a brief trip summary and the photos should take care of the rest. The trip started with a 5 and a half hour car ride to Besirahar - a little town off the main highway between Kathmandu and Pokhara, - with three road accidents on the way. The road is narrow and often steep with many blind corners and is full of cars, buses and trucks – the main highway to India. My guide Kalu and I walked for about 2 hours to the first night’s rest stop – Bhulebhule -  a small village surrounded by paddy fields and farms. There were a couple of crossings of the Marsyengdi River over very rough bamboo “bridges”  - a bit unnerving   - even more so than the slightly edgy river crossings later to come over a number of suspension bridges high above the raging river as we followed it along the valley back to its source in the high mountains.

Each day took us higher into the mountains  - we walked about 6 hours a day – up and down (but mostly up) and the vegetation gradually changed from paddy to open pine forest to rugged dry high desert, which apparently is green and flower filled during Spring. The track initially was part newly constructed dirt/rocky road, part rough dirt track, which became quite narrow at times with steep drops down to the river. Mule and pony trains or flocks of sheep and goats would confront us coming from the opposite direction – often perversely at these most narrow points, which meant I had to find a suitable niche to squash my body against to let them pass. There were plenty of rest stops and tea breaks and a good long time for lunch. Met lots of interesting people from all over the world. The weather was perfect – clear and sunny – although higher up the wind would spring up early afternoon.

As we climbed higher the big mountains appeared -  Manaslu, the Annapurnas 2 3 and 4, Pisang, Tilicho, Ganagpurna  - ranging from around 6000 to 8000 metres. The most spectacular views on the trail were from Pisang to Manang with Annapurna 2 rising straight up from the trail. And at Manang I walked above the town up the side of the glacier looking down into the glacial lake and up to so many amazing mountains.