Lumbini at last

I’ve finally arrived in Lumbini – a few adventures, a bit of gastro and some slight procrastination about whether I was doing the right thing means I have taken 3 weeks to get here. The evening before flying out of Kathmandu the sky was streaked with pink - perhaps a good omen for the time to come or at least the weather for next day’s flight. It was a clear morning, although winter felt like it had arrived and the heater was lit in the dining room at breakfast.

The day before I went a last walk around Thamel and into ‘The Garden of Dreams” a walled garden that once belonged to a member of the Nepalese aristocracy but had been badly neglected for many years. Its restoration took place a few years ago and it is now a public (for a fee) space. I didn’t have my camera with me so no photos – but is quite lovely  - a formal layout with lawns and ponds and fountains and statuary and elegant buildings – one of which is a restaurant.  So I indulged in a steak (a T-bone from Australia!) – had a bit of heavy protein craving since I regained my appetite. There are lots of little alcoves with benches and a raised walkway with seats dotted along the way – they seem to be a popular place for young Nepali couples. It is wedding season at present. This means the traffic can often be held up by a slow procession led by a brass band wearing a mismatched assortment of uniforms and playing with wild abandon, followed by the bride and groom in a car decorated like a Christmas tree and the relos trailing behind in various vehicles or on foot.

One of the pros of travelling alone is that I get to meet and chat to lots of people – although most I will probably never see again I get to have some interesting conversations. So while waiting for my steak I spoke to a Danish couple – the women works for some big Danish beer co. and she has been offered the GM’ship of the Nepali branch. So they were checking out the local scene  - houses, schools etc. - to decide whether to take it up. The other option was Hong Kong – a bit of a difference! Of course the down side is not always having someone to share experiences with and feeling a bit lonely at times.

So my flight arrived safely in Lumbini despite having to sit in a rickety bus, the luggage on an attached rickety trailer, waiting on the tarmac watching some giant planes land and take off for a while because the pilots were running late. Yet again another great view of the mountains from the plane, then into a taxi for the 25 kms. drive to Lumbini - along a road which has become very familiar – passing small villages and farms and not a few factories, the bane of Sayadaw’s life.

Feeling a little like a fish of water I sat in my kuti surrounded by all the stuff I had brought and wondered what to do. Fortunately there was a talk that evening so went to that – not Sayadaw’s best – he sounded and looked a bit tired but as usual the Q & A session was animated and interesting. Then had a big chat with Sayadaw and Sayalay to catch up on all the news and see what they thought I was doing here. It feels like I am on a sort of helping holiday but I’m sure there’s something in store – just not too immediately.

My first “duty” was to attend the opening of the Dilgo Khyentse memorial peace stupa with  invitation in hand  – representing the centre with another helper – a young Burmese woman who doesn’t speak any English (Burmese for me vice versa).

It could have been quite boring for the first hour while we waited for the Grandmother of the Bhutanese king to arrive with the rest of the official entourage (also saw her in Kathmandu when at Shechen with Lesley), including the French Ambassador and Minister of Culture. I amused myself by walking around the compound taking photos and chatting to various people, including two friendly Bhutanese guards in traditional dress. The was a lot of ritual and ceremony both Buddhist – performed by Dilgo Khentse’s incarnation, a young and obviously high revered Rinpoche - and official speakers. I also got to see a lot of the local sangha, monks and nuns from the various Lumbini monasteries, including some cute young samaneris and samanaras. After all the ceremony a very flash catered Indian vegetarian meal was served in an adjoining marquee by by waiters in flash red waistcoats from silver platters full of various vego curries -  and everyone tucked in – me in line with the Theravadan sangha.

While there I met a friend from the Blue Mountains who was travelling with a group led by Ven. Mahinda and Sister Sumitra from Alokha in NSW. She was one of 250 who had taken their novitiate while doing the pilgrimage sites – it was great to see her, if only briefly, as she was swept away to the next venue. I also had a chat with the Venerable who I had not seen for about 20 years. Hope to catch up with Maureen in the next few days