Despite getting to bed
about 11.30, I’m awake - in
Bodhgaya- and it’s 4.30 am (aka
10am Melbourne time) Sunday November 6th . Is it only a day and a
half since I left home (and only four and a half since buying my ticket !)
The flight on Friday
from Melbourne to Bangkok left just slightly later than the 3.30pm scheduled
time. Had a window seat - of course over the wing, even though when paying for
my ticket I’d reserved one further back to avoid that noisy position. But it
turned out well as there was an empty seat next to me, which I shared with a
lovely woman who had the aisle seat.
It’s strange and interesting how physically close one can get with a
complete stranger in a short time when sharing an empty middle seat on a plane,
that the normal conventions of personal space and certain social graces can be
put aside when hurtling through the sky. We contorted in close contact into
numerous positions of variable comfort around each to make the most of our
extra space.
(Just in this moment as
I’m typing I hear the world outside my room beginning to wake with the chanting
of monks – perhaps from the Mahabodhi temple, which is only a short distance
from my guest house and the place where the Buddha attained enlightenment, or
maybe it’s coming from one of the many monasteries dotted around town.)
Anyway, back to the
journey, and onto Bangkok – the flight passing with the usual distractions of
meals, movies, airline magazines, newspapers, chats with my seat mate and some
broken sleep. Then three hours wait between flights and off to Kolkata at around
11.45pm Thai time with a whole new bunch of people.
Landed in Kolkata 2 ½
hours later, and further east, at 12.45am. to a sign with my and my hotel’s name, a car and driver waiting for me – a
small luxury, and in my mind an absolute necessity when arriving after midnight
at Kolkata airport.
My home in
Kolkata was the Lalit Great
Eastern Hotel in Dalhousie Square. By the time I got to bed it was around
2.30am. showered and crashed. I shouldn’t have bothered about the 9am wake up
call to make it on time for breakfast. I woke at 6.30 (Melbourne time midday),
feeling slightly . . .
strange. I guess jetlag encompasses
the mixture of feelings comprising tiredness, disorientation and various small
anxieties about what needs to be done to get settled in a new place. For me one
of the most pressing was to find and get some cash at a fully operational ATM.
The ATM at Kolkata airport had finally decided it couldn’t produce the goods
despite my many patient attempts to overcome it’s particular peculiarities.
I encouraged myself to
relax with some confident self-talk about Kolkata being a major city, plenty of
big banks etc etc and did some yoga then headed down to the pool. It was rainy
and not such a warm morning so I had it to myself. it was so rejuvenating to swim a few laps, then stretch out in the steam room, have
a shower followed by a leisurely breakfast - a lavish buffet and two good coffees – looking out to courtyard with pond and flowering water
lilies. Next - out into the rainy,
crowded, noisy streets of central Kolkatta protected only by a hotel umbrella
that kept closing in on itself – to find a well behaved ATM, a Vodaphone
office, where I went through a laborious process to get an Indian sim, and just
to have a bit of walk around the city
streets negotiating the obstacle course of stalls that crowded the streets with
all manner of goods and their dripping tarps only half –sheltering them, pools
of water, slippery and uneven footpaths, tooting vehicles and people with
umbrellas seemingly oblivious to others
- getting my Indian ‘travel legs’, connecting with the reality of being
in India.
Next came a short
crazy taxi trip from the hotel across the Hoogly River (?) over the impressive
Howrah Bridge to Howrah Station. As
soon as I was out of the cab, a porter was there. My bag on his head he led me
to an enquiry desk crowded with men jostling for attention. I got into Indian
mode and held my own, got my carriage and berth number and followed the porter
Mohan to the platform. The train was on time, Mohan carried my bag into the
carriage and I settled in for the 5 ½ hour journey. It was very enjoyable. There
was snacks soon after departure and dinner at 8, both served on a folding table
set up in the compartment. In between meals the bed was made up with crisp white sheets. and I was able
to get a bit of sleep. My cabin mate Pradeep, was an engineer heading back home
to Gaya, which was also my destination. We chatted about various things – religion,
family, life, the recent Diwali festival- he lent me his phone to ring my guest
house, he spoke to the phone company when I was having a bit of a language
problem and got my new phone going and when we reached Gaya he checked I was
safely in my taxi, which brought me to my home in Bodhgaya, Rahul Guest
House - and here I am.

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